holy trip: Lalibela, Ethiopia, Africa

So this is where the mystery of the background photo gets solved. Yes it is a real place and yes I have been there. It is not specifically a Catholic Pilgrimage site; however, it is a pilgrimage site of great importance to our close cousins, the Ethiopian Orthodox. They like us believe in the Eucharist and venerate the mother of God, the Virgin Mary. Ethiopia is one of the world’s poorest countries, but is home to very noble and dignified beautiful people, keepers of treasures such as (allegedly) the Ark of the Covenant, and a Jerusalem all of their own, with a rich biblical history dating back to the wise Queen of Sheba visiting King Solomon, whom Jesus Himself mentioned, and the Eunuch whom Saint Philip converted to Christianity and baptized.

I went to Ethiopia for my birthday and managed to see quite a lot of it thanks to Dawe Emede Travel and Tour Agency. From Addis Ababa I flew to Lalibela and was dazzled by the depth of faith of the Ethiopians. There is an area in Lalibela named The New Jerusalem; the story goes that early Christian Ethiopians would do annual pilgrimages on foot and by sea to Jerusalem, especially to be baptized in the waters of the Jordan River. On these lengthy journeys several people would die of hunger and fatigue. It is said that God appeared to the noble King Lalibela in a dream and instructed him to build a Jerusalem there in what is now called Lalibela, so that his people would be able to reap the blessings of a pilgrimage without risking their lives. So the king had sites such as Mount Tabor, the River Jordan, Gethsemani, and Calvary all constructed in rocks and hills nearby, including 11 rock hewn churches. Some sites more elaborate than others, but all extraordinary nonetheless.

What impressed me the most, and why they say that Lalibela is ‘beyond words’, is the Bete Giyorgis (Saint Georges Church, he is also the patron Saint of Ethiopia, as well as England and Greece) rock hewn church. It is said that Saint George appeared to King Lalibela and asked him to build this church, and legend has it that a hoofprint near the church belongs to the horse of Saint George himself. Heading there, you walk along a regular dirt patch, and then stop in awe, as immediately before you appears a steep square precipice surrounding an incredible cross structure that was constructed from the roof down, by digging! It is one of the most remarkable buildings I have and probably ever will see in my life.

Walking down into the church, the inside is simply decorated like all Ethiopian churches, with cartoon like icons, with a central wall which encloses Holy of holies-the Eucharist, and always a veil covering the icons of the Virgin Mary, as an extra sign of reverence. Outside our guide told us that they believe that people who went to the river Jordan to be baptized would be incorrupt when they die. He said that some Ethiopian pilgrims went there and dipped their feet, and were buried in holes in the wall - the walls of the cliff have several holes, some for monks to pray in, and others to put bodies in, apparently. He motioned us to a particular hole in the wall, and said that the people in there had walked in the Jordan and their feet were incorrupt. I looked in, and sure enough, 3 skeletons, all bones, except for the skin only covering their feet, surprises everywhere! Ethiopians also have their own saints, beautifully depicted in their typical colourful style, all with admirable lives peppered with miracles. I can talk about Ethiopia for hours; it left such a deep impression on my soul, but I will post once more about Aksum, where the Ark of the Covenant and other Churches are.